Sunday, August 7, 2005
Time, cares slip away during stay at Baxter`s Kidney Pond
Take a cozy log cabin on a wilderness pond, a panorama of magnificent mountains, spruce-scented forests, and miles of trails leading off in every direction. Add a fun group of people, an abundance of food, coolers full of cold beverages, and you have a recipe for a fine weekend of hiking and camping. And that's exactly the experience I had on a July visit to Kidney Pond Campground in Baxter State Park.
Kidney Pond is tucked away in the southwest corner of the park. Rustic log cabins line the pretty shore of the pond. Canoes lie stacked on the grass nearby. The little library waits for company, someone to sit and read the old books and reflect. Stairs, floors and doors creak. It feels like summer camp, exuding simplicity and comfort.
It's quiet and peaceful here, and you can't help but be drawn into the laid-back feel of the place. It's a tough choice whether to take a hike, paddle a canoe, stretch out under the sun in the big field, or just plunk down in chair and watch the world go slowly by.
Our group spent the long days out hiking, some to the lofty heights of Mount Katahdin, Hamlin Peak, the precipitous Knife Edge and Pamola Peak; others to the nearby ponds and mountains. And since my goal was to leave the car parked at Kidney Pond for the entire three-day visit, I chose to hike from there.
One delightful day we explored five of the area's 16 ponds. We walked from Kidney Pond to Daicey Pond, then along the Appalachian Trail to Elbow Pond and Tracy Pond, where we spotted our first and only moose of the trip. We lunched and dozed at Grassy Pond.
As we circled about, each pond offered wonderful mountain views and a new perspective on Katahdin and the peaks of O-J-I, Coe, Barren, The Owl and Doubletop. Finally, we visited Nesowadnehunk Stream and Toll Dam, Little Niagara and Big Niagara Falls, and took a refreshing swim before doubling back to camp.
The next day we tackled Doubletop, the most strikingly beautiful mountain in Maine in my opinion, with its steep rise and conical, twin-peaked summit. The trail is deceptively easy for the first several miles, but beyond Deer Pond it climbs moderately to a saddle. And here the real work begins as the mountain rises straight up for over a thousand feet. The trail is relentlessly steep and, in places, requires you to climb with both hands and feet.
But you are justly rewarded with an unbeatable mountain view from the craggy alpine summit, ranging from Traveler to the Brothers to the mass of Mount Katahdin; it's all displayed before you.
We spent afternoons swimming in the pond and relaxing with snacks and cold drinks on the cabin porch. And each evening before dinner, we paddled out in rented canoes or personal kayaks and explored the pond as the setting sun turned Katahdin a soft purple and pink. We could hear a moose thrashing about in the alder thickets, but couldn't draw it out for a photo. Beavers swam ahead of our boats and occasionally slapped the water with their powerful tails. Loons wailed in the lingering light of dusk. What a joy to be immersed in such true wilderness!
Kidney Pond Campground is 12 miles from Togue Pond gatehouse, the southern entrance to Baxter State Park. From there, follow the Nesowadnehunk Tote Road north to Foster Field, and then go left a couple of miles to the pond. Allow a good hour to get there from the gate.
There are 12 wilderness cabins at Kidney Pond; nine are accessible by footpath, three are accessible by car. Pull carts are available for hauling camping gear to your cabin.
Each cabin is furnished simply with bunk beds and mattresses, woodstove, propane light, several chairs and a picnic table. There are also outdoor fireplaces and pit toilets nearby (but no showers).
You'll need to bring your own bedding, cook stove, food, pots, pans, utensils and drinking water. Be sure to double check your packing list because there are no stores in the park, and it's a long drive to Millinocket.
Advance reservations for camping at Kidney Pond are mandatory. Overnight fees for the cabins are $25 per person per night, with a minimum $45 for a 2-person cabin, $60 for a three-person cabin, and $75 for a four-person cabin.
Canoes are available for rent for a very reasonable $1 per hour.
For information and reservations, contact Baxter State Park at 723-5140 or www.baxterstateparkauthority.com.
CAREY KISH of Portland would happily live out his days at Kidney Pond if the park rangers would let him. He can be reached at:maineoutdoors@aol.com