Sunday, September 4, 2005
At this splendid state park, it`s all about the river
The Androscoggin River begins its 170-mile journey to the ocean at Umbagog Lake along the Maine-New Hampshire border. From there it winds its way south to Errol, N.H., where you'll find Mollidgewock State Park situated on a sharp bend in the river. The park makes an excellent base for camping and exploring this wild and scenic region of the north woods.
Whether you enjoy fishing, wildlife watching, paddling your canoe or kayak, or simply floating along in your inflatable tube, it's all about the river here. I camped and played in and around Mollidgewock for three days with friends in early August and had plenty of river fun. If you love rivers then I trust you'll enjoy it, too.
We pitched tents of all sizes and colors in the grassy field just yards from the Androscoggin River. Boats of all types were unloaded and stacked above the natural beach. Camp chairs were circled about a roaring fire as we settled comfortably in for the weekend. At dusk a cow moose thrashed about wildly on the far bank, exhibiting unusually aggressive behavior before crashing back into the woods. We went to sleep under a brilliant night sky and the soothing sound of the riffles downstream.
In the morning we assembled the group, put our canoes and kayaks in the water and paddled off en masse. Below the campground five miles of gentle Class I water make for a fun and easy morning outing. Ospreys circled above our heads, water lilies bloomed at river's edge and a pleasant breeze cooled our sweaty bodies. At a rope swing several paddlers took the big plunge into the warm water, while the rest of us cheered them on.
After lunch in camp, we grabbed our inflatable tubes and spent the afternoon making multiple runs down through Errol Rips, a short Class II stretch of river that runs through town. Sometimes we floated down separately, other times we banded together into a twisting, turning snake or a back-to-back circle. Regardless, we never failed to hoot and holler as we splashed downriver. It was good fun!
SOUTH TO PONTOOK DAM
The following day we packed up camp and headed south to Pontook Dam in Dummer. Sea kayakers were already out exploring the Pontook Reservoir above the roaring waters pouring through the gates of the dam. We put in just below and shoved off for a fun four-mile run through more Class II rips. At the take-out at the Bofinger Conservation Area, a few hardy paddlers loaded up to make another run down the rapids, while the rest of us enjoyed some lunch in the hot sun before departing for a leisurely drive home.
Mollidgewock State Park is open from mid-May through mid-October. There are 42 campsites, most of which front the Androscoggin River. All but five of the sites are drive-in. There are also five "remote" campsites just a few miles outside the park. Camping fees are reasonable at $16 per night for two persons. Each additional camper is $8 per night. Pit toilets and water spigots are conveniently located throughout the park. Firewood and ice may be purchased at the campground office.
The drive to Errol and Mollidgewock State Park alone is worth the trip. I recommend taking Route 26 through the spectacular mountains of Grafton Notch State Park and past the expansive waters of Umbagog Lake. Mix it up a little and make the return trip across Route 16, a scenic and desolate route to the Rangeley Lakes area.
Errol village, at the junction of Routes 26 and 16 on the Androscoggin River, is the hub of activity for the area. The place has a real "north woods" feel to it with the quaint Errol General Store, the Northern Exposure Restaurant and the Great North Woods One-Stop. A visit to the sprawling L.L. Cote Sporting Goods store, a sportsman's paradise where you can buy everything from blaze orange and camouflage clothing to machetes and chain saws to a Mr. Beer Keg Home Micro Brew System, is a must.
To make a camping reservation at Mollidgewock State Park go to www.nhstateparks.org or call 603-271-3628. For information on canoe and kayak rentals, guided river trips and shuttle service, contact the Saco Bound Northern Waters Outpost at 603-482-3817 or www.sacobound.com/northern online. And the Umbagog Area Chamber of Commerce is a great area resource at 603-482-3906 or www.umbagogchambercommerce.com.
CAREY KISH of Portland would happily live out his days at Kidney Pond if the park rangers would let him. He can be reached at:maineoutdoors@aol.com