MAINE TODAY










This 130-mile route connecting the St. Croix River on the New Brunswick border with the Penobscot River north of Bangor, has been dubbed the Eastern Maine Canoe Trail

efore there were Interstates and paved highways, even before there were logging roads, Maine's natives made their way across the state's watery web of lakes and rivers in birch bark canoes. For more than a thousand years, the water trails, etched across its forested landscape, served as a kind of highway system. Many of these trails still exist, largely unchanged. Now, these trails are being rediscovered.

To explore the appeal of water trails, the Portland Newspapers and WGME-TV (NewsChannel 13) teamed up to take readers, viewers and Internet users on a canoe journey across eastern Maine. Take the trip along with the journalists, or use this site to learn about canoeing, Maine's Indians, or the people who work and play in a world brimming with nature.


The team sets their canoes in the water and encounters rapids, rain and untouched wilderness as they retrace the centuries-old paths of the Passamaquoddy Indians. In the first week's story, Rain tests the travelers on history's highway

  • Maine is leader in effort to create new water trails
  • Glacial melt, birch bark gave people means to travel
  • Many names reflect canoeists' point of view
  • Amy Sinclair's daily journal.
  • A map of the trail.
  • Book Excerpt: Tales of the Passamaquoddies and their land
  • Book Excerpt: The mythology of the Passamaquoddy Indians

  • Around Grand Lake Stream, our team encounters its toughest obstacle to date: A two-mile portage through muck and mosquitos under a searing sun. In the second week's story, The portage taxes the team's stamina.

  • Aging craftsmen see uncertain future for legendary canoes
  • Canoe enthusiast aims to preserve ancient routes
  • Petroglyphs offer intriguing evidence of shamanism
  • A map of the trail.


  • Lots has changed in Northern Maine since 40 years ago, when thousands of four-foot logs choked the cove and obscured the water's surface. In the third week's story, nature slowly removes man's traces.

  • Fishing mecca promotes alternative attractions Grand Lake Stream is trying to appeal to families who want to relax and enjoy the outdoors.
  • Water trails also attract land travelers The canoe routes may spark an interest in tourism pegged to learning about historic events.
  • Marnie MacLean's daily journal.
  • Tips for a safe, enjoyable canoe trip
  • Sources for more information
  • QuickTime Movies: watch Reporters Tux Turkel and Amy Sinclair tackle the rapids (616 K), see fly fisherman Bob Upham doing his thing (363 K), Marnie MacLean paddling in a tranquil stream (649 K), or Marnie landing a fish (1.2M). The first four will take a minute or two each to download; the fourth will take four or more minutes.

    To view these videos, your browser will need the QuickTime System extension version 2.1 or later. Quick Time is available at http://www.quicktime.apple.com


    Above: A team of four journalists spent three weeks traversing 130 miles in northern Maine. Here, canoeists make their way across Fourth Machias Lake. Trail developer Mike Krepner and his wife, Ellen Libby are in the front canoe, and WGME-TV's Jack Amrock and Marnie MacLean are in back. Staff photo by John Patriquin

    Right: Press Herald reporter Tux Turkel and WGME-TV photographer Jack Amrock bring a canoe ashore at Gassabias Lake to make camp. Staff photo by John Patriquin

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    Outdoors | The Portland Press Herald Online | WGME-TV (NewsChannel 13)