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Sunday, August 1, 2004
Megunticook Traverse has scenery, sadness
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The traverse links five different trails along its six-mile length. I like to do the hike from west to east by starting on the Maiden Cliff Trail, which gets you quickly up to the good views. The route continues on the Scenic, Ridge, Tableland and Carriage trails. The trails are marked with blue paint blazes, but a map is a good idea to avoid any confusion with side trails. Allow three to four hours to enjoy the hike. The Maiden Cliff trailhead is located on Route 52, two miles from the intersection with Route 1 in Camden. Park on the left just past the impressive rock face of Barrett's Cove Cliff and above the town beach on Lake Megunticook, where a post-hike swim is irresistible on a hot summer day. The Megunticook Traverse isn't a loop hike, so you'll want to either spot a car or walk the 1 1/2 miles back along the road. From the trailhead, ascend steadily for a mile through cool hemlock forest before leveling out and traversing through scrub oaks. At a trail junction scramble out to Maiden Cliff and the big white metal cross, anchored to the rock in a dramatic location overlooking Lake Megunticook. Maiden Cliff is the site where 12-year-old Elenora French fell to her death on May 7, 1864, while trying to catch her windblown hat. No matter how many times I visit, I never fail to get an uneasy feeling here. From the cliff, follow the Scenic Trail up to a large rock cairn on an open ledge and fine views of the lake and Ragged and Bald Rock mountains to the south. The cross on Maiden's Cliff is visible just above the treetops. Beyond, follow the Ridge Trail for several easy miles over Mount Megunticook (1,380 feet), passing frequent outlooks. The summit of the mountain is wooded and has no views, so there is no sign. About a half mile beyond, though, you'll come to the precipitous cliffs of Ocean Lookout. Enjoy the ocean breeze and the views of Camden village and Penobscot Bay, and watch the streams of cars snaking up the Mount Battie Auto Road in the distance. After a break, descend steeply to the Tablelands Trail. Sometimes I'll take this trail all the way over to Mount Battie, but I often skip it in summer because of the crowds. There's a nice view from the stone tower on top if you decide to go. To finish the hike, take the Carriage Trail down the mountain, following a pretty brook for much of the way out to Route 52. You'll no doubt be hankering for that refreshing swim in Lake Megunticook, so I hope you've brought a bathing suit and towel. You can make it a full weekend by camping at Camden Hills State Park. The park has 107 well-spaced drive-in campsites, according to Sharon Carter, park receptionist with Camden Hills State Park. Camping is $15 per night per site for Maine residents, $20 for non-residents. There are no electric or water hook-ups, but the park does have free hot showers and flush toilets. Reservations are recommended on summer weekends. "The park is a quiet place to camp, much more so than other, more commercial campgrounds in the area," said Carter. That should ensure a pleasant night's rest so you can hit the trail again for more great hiking, much of which can be accessed right from the campground. Carey Kish of Portland is the former president of the Maine Outdoor Adventure Club. He can be reached at:
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