| Sunday, August 21, 2005 Grafton Loop Trail offers rugged trek through mountains
Copyright © 2005 Blethen Maine Newspapers Inc. | |||
 | Also on this page: Reader Reviews | ||
The Grafton Loop Trail is a demanding weekend hike that traverses some very scenic backcountry along the 21-mile path through the mountains of far western Maine. If you're seeking solitude, you'll surely find it here, as I discovered on a recent backpacking trip. "It's wild country," said Steve Spencer, backcountry project director for the Maine Department of Conservation, one of 12 partners in a coalition that made the trail a reality two years ago. Spencer believes that because it's a remote enough area, the trail attracts a fairly select group of hikers, those with pretty good skills, making for an uncrowded experience. Even so, "two days is too fast," in Spencer's opinion, who prefers taking three days to really enjoy the hike. I agree. It's a rugged trek. We opted to travel from south to north, making the long climb up Puzzle Mountain, gaining a healthy 2,300 feet in elevation from the highway. From the open summit, you can trace the route of the trail over Long Mountain and on to the twin peaks of the Baldpates. The steep flanks of Old Speck stand out at the head of Grafton Notch. And the treeless slopes of Sunday River Whitecap beckon across the pastoral valley of the Bear River. From Puzzle Mountain, the trail turns north and follows the yellow paint marks of the town line between Newry and Andover, weaving back and forth under a thick canopy of hardwoods. It's easy walking over Long Mountain, with occasional outlooks before reaching Town Corner, where the trail turns west. We found a youth group comfortably ensconced at the Town Corner Campsite and so opted to amble on another couple of miles to the deserted Knoll Campsite, where we pitched camp above a branch of Wight Brook. After a good night's rest, we continued on, stopping at the cozy Lane Campsite tucked into the spruce and birch. A side trail leads downstream to a terrific swimming hole (the water was cold!) and farther on, to a pretty cascade. We also found the only official privy on the trail (more to be built), a simple box with a toilet seat several hundred feet away from the campsite. At Lightning Ledge, we enjoyed fine views and a bountiful crop of blueberries before tackling the long uphill grind to East Baldpate, at more than 3,800 feet, the high point of the Grafton Loop Trail. At the top, the GLT joins the Appalachian Trail, where we lounged in the afternoon sun amid the alpine splendor. The descent of East Baldpate on its open ledges was spectacular, but hard on the knees, as was the slippery, heavily eroded trail coming down West Baldpate. We pulled in briefly at the West Baldpate shelter to water up before hiking the final couple of miles to Grafton Notch, where an easy hitchhike got us back to the car in minutes. The GLT is well-marked with blue blazes and signs. The five campsites are first-come, first served and are primitive. With the exception of the West Baldpate lean-to on the Appalachian Trail, there are no shelters on the GLT. Tents are a must. Fires are prohibited, so a cook stove is necessary. Plan to carry plenty of water, especially between Puzzle Mountain and Knoll Campsite, as water sources are sparse and questionable. The GLT exists because of the vision and hard work of many dedicated people, as well as the good will of the private landowners, whose land the trail crosses. Spencer asks hikers to employ common sense and courtesy while on the GLT. "Practice 'Leave No Trace' and be considerate of the land and other visitors," Spencer urges. Construction of the western half of the GLT is scheduled to be completed this fall and will likely be opened to the hiking public next spring, Spencer notes. This new 21-mile section of trail promises to open up more spectacular backcountry while connecting Bald, Stowe, Sunday River Whitecap and Slide Mountains with the summit of Old Speck and the Appalachian Trail. The southern trail head of the GLT is located on Route 26 in Newry, five miles north of the intersection with Route 2. The northern trail head can be found seven miles ahead at the intersection with the Appalachian Trail at Grafton Notch. For more information on the GLT, go to the Maine Appalachian Trail Club Web site at www.matc.org, where you can download a trail map, trail description with mileage and trail etiquette reminders.
Carey Kish of Portland is a Registered Maine Guide and has hiked and camped extensively throughout Maine. He can be reached a: maineoutdoors@aol.com | |||
Get
Reader Reviews
To top of page