Schoodic and Black mountains

By Carey Kish

Copyright © 2004 Blethen Maine Newspapers Inc.

E-mail this story
Find more trails

Trail name: Schoodic and Black mountains, Donnell Pond Public Reserved Land Nearest town: Ellsworth Region: Downeast/Acadia Length: 2.5 and 5 miles, depending on trail chosen Difficulty: Intermediate Other: Camping is allowed ony at designated campsites with outhouses nearby. Maps: Get driving directions from MapQuest. View a topo map from Maptech MapServer.

Mountains of classic pink granite, fragrant coastal forests of spruce and fir and a multitude of pristine lakes and ponds await hikers at the 14,000-acre Donnell Pond Public Reserved Land east of Ellsworth.

"It's a very pretty place, with beautiful views of the ocean," said Vern Labbe, regional lands manager for the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands, overseers of the Donnell Pond unit. "Visitors get a real sense of remoteness here."

Donnell Pond is very popular with boaters, but with 15 miles of great hiking trails, there's also plenty for hikers to explore. Schoodic and Black mountains (both about 1,000 feet) are the two most prominent peaks in the area, so I climbed them during a recent visit to get a good look around. It proved to be a very scenic day!

The main trail head is 12 miles east of Ellsworth. Follow Route 1 east to Sullivan, then go left on Route 183. In about five miles, turn left on a gravel road just after crossing railroad tracks, drive to the end of the road and park.

SCHOODIC MOUNTAIN

Follow a wide track an easy half-mile down to Schoodic Beach on Donnell Pond and take in the magnificent panorama. Except for the communications tower on a distant ridge- line (which is easily ignored), the place has a true wilderness feel to it. Mountains rise up to either side, and the pond, absent the usual shoreline camps, opens up before you.

Walk left to the end of the beach, enter the woods and go right and uphill. Ascend steeply at first, then gradually on switchbacks. At a trail junction in a small clearing in the scrub oak forest, bear right and wind your way up to the summit tower.

On top you're rewarded with magnificent views all around, so relax and enjoy! On a clear day, you'll see most of the major mountains of Acadia etched on the skyline. Can you identify them? From left to right are Champlain, Huguenot Head, Dorr, Cadillac, Pemetic, Sargent, Penobscot, Mansell and Bernard mountains.

In midsummer, the view will distract you only momentarily from the wealth of delicious blueberries that populate the summit plateau, so be sure to pack a container or two to carry some home with you.

To return, retrace your steps to the junction, bear right and descend gradually, passing by several huge boulders with overhangs before reaching the parking lot.

Plan on two hours to make the 2.5-mile loop hike, depending on how long you linger at the pond and summit.

BLACK MOUNTAIN

Follow a level woods road to the base of the mountain. Climb steeply on switchbacks and rock steps through spruce, fir and red maples, before the trail levels out in a forest dark and green with moss. Pass by several trail junctions, staying on the Black Mountain Trail. Beyond the third junction, climb gently onto open ledges, following cairns to the broad top of the mountain.

Miles of seemingly unbroken forest surround you here. Look out north over Rainbow Pond to Caribou and Tunk mountains; east to expansive Tunk Lake; west across Black Mountain to the pink dome of Schoodic Mountain; and south to the peaks of Acadia and the ocean. It's a beautiful sight to take in.

Heading back, proceed to the very first trail junction, bear right and traverse along the cliff top. A long, sinuous descent brings you back to Donnell Pond. A refreshing swim to rinse off the sweat will surely be in order, and a great way to cap off a fine day of hiking.

Allow three leisurely hours for this five-mile loop.

Camping is allowed only at designated campsites in the unit. Outhouses are nearby. Fires are limited to designated fire pits. Water can be obtained from the lake and should be treated. Schoodic Beach is particularly busy with day-trippers in the summer, but despite the heavy use, Labbe said that finding a campsite isn't usually a problem.

There are plans to create a more extensive system of hiking trails and backcountry campsites, Labbe said. For now, though, hikers are limited to camping at Schoodic Beach and Redman's Beach, the only sites accessible by foot.

Vandalism has been a problem at Schoodic Beach and the trailhead recently, according to Labbe. But with a full-time seasonal ranger now on duty through the summer, the situation is expected to improve.

Carey Kish of Portland is the former president of the Maine Outdoor Adventure Club. He can be reached at:

happycamper@careykish.com