Back and Cross rivers, Boothbay

By MICHAEL PERRY

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Paddle name: Back and Cross rivers in Boothbay Nearest town: Boothbay Region: Midcoast Water type: Salt water river Difficulty: Advanced Length: five to six hour paddle Put-in: From Route 1 in Edgecomb follow Route 27 for 9.3 miles to Boothbay center. Turn right onto Corey Lane at the Civil War statue. Go straight at the stop sign and take the first right onto Barters Island Road. Knickerkane Island Park is located 1.4 miles to the west just after the bridge over to Hodgdon Island. Take-out: Same as put-in. Other: Even though the Back River is fairly protected from the open ocean, the wind can be an issue because of the river's north-south orientation. And it's best to time your visit within the hours of three hours before and after high tide. Maps: Get driving directions from MapQuest. View a topo map from Maptech MapServer.

The Oven's Mouth: the name certainly sounded exciting and full of possibilities. We were not disappointed. This saltwater outing, exploring the Back and Cross rivers in Boothbay, has it all: birds, seals, interesting geology, swirling waters and just enough solitude amid the cottages and homes to provide respite from the cares of work and home.

Just a few minutes out we were met with the gleeful calls of laughing gulls perched on seaweed-covered ledges. They were striking, each sporting a bright red bill, black head, white neck ring and breast. Osprey wheeled overhead with some clutching fish and others clutching sticks to improve their nests. Kingfisher calls rattled from shoreline to shoreline. It was great to be out on the water exploring a new place once again.

There is no immediate put-in spot if you just want to venture into the Oven's Mouth, a narrow mile-long east-west running channel where the Back River and Cross River meet at the Edgecomb and Boothbay town lines. The nearest public boat launch facility is at Knickerkane Island Park on Hodgdon Island four miles to the south on the Back River.

From Route 1 in Edgecomb follow Route 27 for 9.3 miles to Boothbay center. Turn right onto Corey Lane at the Civil War statue. Go straight at the stop sign and take the first right onto Barters Island Road. Knickerkane Island Park is located 1.4 miles to the west just after the bridge over to Hodgdon Island. Refer to the Delorme Maine Atlas and Gazetteer map No. 7 for help in getting there.

Plan five to six hours for a paddle up and back, including time spent poking about various coves, and enjoying some island rest stops. There are a number of homes on both sides of the river for the first mile, fewer as you venture farther up the river. Barters Island is the high profile of land on your left, featuring many dramatic cliffs and rock outcroppings bulging out from steep forested slopes.

Three islands march up the middle of the river each about a mile apart. At low water you will want to pass them on river left as the river becomes shallow to the right at low tide. For this reason it is best to time your visit within the hours of three hours before and after high tide.

The other variable is the wind. We planned an early morning start in anticipation of any sea breezes that might spring up around noon. Even though the Back River is fairly protected from the open ocean, the wind can be an issue because of the river's north-south orientation.

As you pass by Tibbet Island you will see High Head directly ahead. Paddle over to river right, where you will soon see a red and white No Wake sign on the shoreline. The narrow entrance into the Oven's Mouth is 50 yards beyond. The water flow really starts to pick up here and, depending on the time and direction of the tide, may be hissing and swirling. If you hit it on the flow it is like stepping onto a conveyor belt as you are suddenly whisked into the narrow waterway and borne toward the wider expanse of water waiting at the other end of the canyon.

The water was deep and green, and etched with small whirlpools and bubbling bursts of upwelling water. It was magical and exhilarating. First our boats would be pulled one way, then another. We were totally at the whim of the swirling waters. Paddlers exploring this area should be confident in moving water situations and proficient with bracing strokes.

On river right there are two thin fingers of water cut back into the shadowy bluffs. Each one begs for exploration. The first finger leads a mile back into a peaceful expanse of marsh grasses. The second cut is shorter and even more interesting. Near its end look for a pile of huge boulders and shards of rock from an obvious rock slide. They sit at crazy angles like the statues of Easter Island. We sat still listening to the call of songbirds echoing through the trees, and watched a solitary blue heron lift off and head out toward the river.

Then it was back out to the fast water for the last few yards of flow out into the vast eastern reaches of the Cross River, which becomes at this point a large tidal salt-water basin. You could spend many more hours poking about in here. It certainly was pretty, dotted with lobster pots and with the heads of curious harbor seals popping up behind us. But the shoreline was plastered with no-trespassing signs and we felt uncomfortable in that kind of atmosphere. So back into the Oven we headed, this time against the tide.

We had our work cut out for us, with the first few strokes not yielding much result. We put it into overdrive and started to make progress. Using the back eddies provided by the undulating line of cliffs we had no problem working our way back through the passageway.

On river right a 20-foot high cliff plunged down into the water. Hanging from the cracks in its face were rows of brilliant red and yellow columbine bells suspended out over the water. We were dazzled by the beauty, and by the sheer tenacity of life displayed in those tiny cracks, There wasn't much time to gaze up in wonder as the flow pushed us back 10 yards before we started paddling again.

If you are paddling a sea kayak instead of a canoe, you might consider paddling out into the Sheepscot River and circumnavigating Barters Island on the way back to Knickerkane Island Park. Keep in mind that the wind will be much stiffer out in the wide Sheepscot, and that the the chop will be much increased. We worked hard in a 15-knot breeze making slow progress down the western shoreline, giving us thought that staying inside might have been the more pleasurable option.

The Trevett Country Store is located just west of the launch site and adjacent to the bridge that connects Hodgdon to Barters Island. They feature an array of sandwich specials and a great deck on which to enjoy the food and views. Or bring your own charcoal and end the outing with a picnic at the park at the launch site. There are grills and picnic tables spread under a grove of pines with the sounds and sights of the sea nearby.

If you still have energy to burn you can enjoy a walk at the nearby Coastal Maine Botanical Garden. The entrance is on the right as you head back toward Boothbay just a half-mile from the launch site. A number of short loop trails offer exposure to an extensive array of trees, ferns, and wildflowers. It is well worth the stop.

Michael Perry is the former director of the L.L.Bean Outdoor Discovery Schools and founder of Dreams Unlimited, specializing in inspiring outdoor slide programs for businesses, schools, and civic groups. E-mail dreams@ime.net