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Sunday, October 6, 2002
St. George
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A kingfisher, easily recognized by its large head and long bill, streaked across the water and chattered from big maples. A great blue heron, startled by paddling kaykers, rose up in gangly grace from pickerel weeds, uttering a loud "cronk" before flying on powerful wings over a backwater swamp. It was a perfect day to kayak the serene, gently curving section of the St. George River that flows through Warren. The approximately 50-mile waterway issues from its namesake, Lake St. George. It meanders through five bodies of water — Stevens Pond, Trues Pond, Sennebec Pond, Round Pond, and finally, Seven Tree Pond in Union and Warren. Then, it flows past Port Clyde and spills into the Gulf of Maine. It was a surprisingly warm day for late September. St. George was in a serene mood; a soft breeze barely rippling its surface. Trees mirrored in the slow-moving river showed only tinges of leaf change. But already, nature was broadly hinting at her seasonal sleight-of-hand. Now and then, red and yellow leaves drifted past us like little paper boats, as we paddled our kayaks upstream. Graphics designer Susan Varney and I were on the river that day to scout out yet another excellent spot for our annual fall leaf-peeping tour. We wanted to explore a water route, but we were keeping an eye open for an auto trip, too, for folks who don't want to kayak or canoe. Turns out, the area beautifully served both purposes. ST. GEORGE ADVENTURE With Varney coming from Augusta and me from Freedom, we decided to meet for breakfast at the famed Moody's Diner on Route 1 in Waldoboro. Expect friendly service, typical diner fare and so-so coffee. At that intersection, you can also get fresh-baked gourmet breads at Borealis Bakery, right across from Moody's. The bakery is painted bright yellow. You can't miss it. Joining us on our adventure that day was Judy Nisbett of Monmouth, an avid kayaker. Her purple, fiberglass kayak and a smaller yellow one (for me), was lashed to her Subaru parked at Moody's. Nisbett, a retired schoolteacher, had just taken part in The Race for the Cure, helping to raise money for the Susan Komer Breast Cancer Foundation. She had been team captain for 21 walkers and runners. Two years ago, she had shared part of our summer canoeing adventure at the Little River in Georgetown. At that time, she had celebrated her 60th birthday by taking 19 days to hike, kayak and bike from Washington County to York County to promote the work of the Maine Chapter of The Nature Conservancy in Brunswick. Our launching site was a carryon boat landing not marked on any map. It is located on Middle Road, about 1 1/2 miles north out of Warren, right at the base of a low, green-iron and concrete bridge that crosses the St. George River. A dirt parking area off the road near the bridge has enough room for two or three vehicles. Before we put in the St. George, we met up with Jane Funk of Warren. She had tipped us off about the unmarked carryon site. An educator, she has taught at the Montessouri School in Camden for many years and lives in an idyllic, gray-shingled farmhouse right on the river, only about 1/4 mile up from the bridge. We lugged our kayaks down a short, steep path to the river passing swamp honeysuckles lit with fiery red berries. Our "stairs" were exposed tree roots and big rocks. Birds sang from white pines, oaks, maples and ash trees growing along the river. Soon we were gliding down the river. Canoes are great fun, but kayaks are faster and lighter. You're so close to the water, you feel like a water bird. We began by heading upstream. Funk, paddling a dark-green recreational kayak, a Walden Paddler, knows the St. George like an old friend. "This river has no tidal influence," she said, as the morning's fog cleared to patches of blue and the day promised to heat up. "The river can be followed back to its headwaters, Lake St. George, but the way is gnarly and shallow. Maybe in spring it would be easier. "There's no head wind today," she said. "It's a clean river with a lot of wildlife. People fish off the bridge. We see eagles, lots of hawks. There are ospreys on the river between us and Seven Trees Pond." A catbird called from the brush. Small fish, believed by group consensus to be fingerling brown trout, darted about in the water world, below. "There are freshwater clams here; I can see their shells," said Varney, pointing from her red kayak to a muddy bank. As we paddled, the river widened out. Trees, shrubs, grasses and small plants, like smart weed, were abundant and diverse, more like the vegetation found around ponds than along rivers, Varney said. Suddenly, a kingfisher made a magnificent dive, right in front of Funk's kayak. Splash! She applauded. "Good show! Must be good fishing," she said. The day heated up fast. Extra outer wear was quickly shed. We paddled tranquilly for about two hours, chatting as if we were sitting in a fresh-air living room exquisitely designed a la St. George. Varney spotted four painted turtles lazily resting in a row on a long log. "OK guys," she said, drifting toward them, aiming her camera. "Don't worry. I'm not going to make soup out of you." The turtles, usually wary creatures, turned their heads and posed, as if they understood every word. "Thank you," she said, to the turtles. The words fit our sentiments. We were grateful for this great outing on one of Maine's most picturesque rivers. "When the leaves turn, its just beautiful here," Funk said. And that was exactly what we wanted to hear and share with you. Lynn Ascrizzi — 623-3811, ext. 731 lascrizzi@centralmaine.com |
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