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If there's a trail — be it snow, dirt, water or concrete — outdoors nut Carey Kish will find it. Follow his Maine outdoor adventures in his blog.

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July 05, 2005
Camden rock rocks

Camden is probably best known for its pretty harbor, downtown shops and restaurants, the quiet trails and comfy campsites of the picturesque Camden Hills that rise just above town, and the tourist traffic along Route 1 that bunches up pretty good this time of year.

Take Route 52 west out of town toward Lake Megunticook, though, and you can leave a good part of the summer hustle behind. And a couple miles down the road, just after cresting a road cut, you'll find one of the best little rock climbing cliffs in the state at Barrett's Cove.

Just like the Portland Press Herald's Deirdre Fleming did. Climb on Dierdre!

I don't rock climb much anymore, but when I did, Barrett's Cove Cliff was my favorite getaway. Scenic and uncrowded, the cliff offers a host of sweet climbing routes from easy beginner to scary hard (that's not an official rating, just my own "sweaty palms" description) on a 250-foot wall of clean rock at a consistent angle of about 70 degrees.

A nice introduction to the cliff is Clamdigger (my first-ever lead climb years ago), an enjoyable one-pitch 5.5 that puts you on Broadway, the big ledge that cuts across the cliff face midway. From there, finish up with Slow Children, a fun 5.4 hand crack. At the top, walk off left or rap down, but you'll need 2 ropes and it'll take 2 rappels. The path is quicker.

A step up is the 3-pitch sweep up the center of the cliff on the 5.7 Charlotte's Crack, the classic climb at Barrett's, combining nice face climbing lower down with squirrelly crack moves above.

More experienced climbers may want to test their meddle on the 5.8 (really a 5.9) Templeton's. Thin cracks and intricate protection make this one an exciting foray. My palms are drenched just thinking about my last trip up there. Sewing machine leg? Not me! (I lie).

There used to be a little guidebook to the area called "Rock and Ice Climbs in the Camden Hills" by Ben Townsend, but it may be out of print (and you can't have mine). For some local beta on climbing routes at Barrett's Cove, try checking in with the folks at Maine Sport in Rockport.

Post-climb, coil up the ropes and stow the gear, and go for a swim at the town beach on Megunticook just down the hill from the cliff. Then head to Cappy's Chowder House in the village for wings and a cold one. You've earned it!

Have fun and climb safe!

And if anybody wants to take this creaky old climber out for a nostalgic romp up the cliff, I'm in. I promise I won't wear my lederhosen, but I'll buy the beer after!

Posted by Carey Kish at 12:03 PM
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Comments

We just might take you up on that offer!! I was a bit disappointed with this mornings article. ie. top roping for experts only and making it sound that lunging for holds was the norm for a good climber. BAD INFO

Posted by Big Drip
July 5, 2005 04:07 PM

Dust off the gear Carey....let's get you out there!

Posted by BB
July 6, 2005 09:31 AM

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