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Trail Head - everyday adventure in the Maine outdoors
If there's a trail — be it snow, dirt, water or concrete — outdoors nut Carey Kish will find it. Follow his Maine outdoor adventures in his blog.

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July 12, 2007
A car-free visit to Acadia

OK, let's think out of the box for a moment, shall we? Out of that shiny metal box with four tires and a steering wheel...

Your car.

One of life's many necessities, yes. But all the time?

Consider this: You want to get out of Dodge for the weekend. Head on up to beautiful Acadia National Park for a visit. Camp in Blackwoods. Do some hiking. Bike the carriage trails. Kayak some maybe. Carouse the streets of Bar Harbor for sure.

You need you car for such a trip, right?

Maybe not.

For years it was a no-brainer for me. Load the vehicle chock full of gear and hit the road, Bar Harbor-bound 180 miles up the coast.

But times have changed some, haven't they?

Gas is $3 a gallon. Ouch! Cars are more expensive to own and maintain. Tons more traffic on the highway. And road rage. All the talk about global climate change and 'going green' and all that good stuff.

You're right, you say. But what does that have to do with getting to Acadia?

Well--hold on now--how about taking the bus?

Hey, hey, hey... now get up off the floor and stop that laughing.

The bus?

Yes, dammit.

It's possible. I know because I just did it. And it was an awesome, eye-opening, and relaxing trip. All sans car. And I'd do it again now that I know it's not only possible, but downright practical.

You see, it was like this.

I packed my backpack with the usual goods for a couple of days. And then filled a soft-sided cooler with beer, baloney and hot dogs (you didn't think I was going without beer, did you?! Silly, silly).

I then drove over to the Greyhound bus station in Portland, parked my car, bid it a fond farewell and jumped on the 3:15pm Vermont Transit bus, northbound to Bar Harbor with stops in beautiful downtown Brunswick and Bangor. (By the way, the 2:30pm bus goes thru Lewiston, Augusta and Waterville if you happen to live in those parts.)

Pack and VT 07.JPG
The 3:15pm Vermont Transit bus in Portland, bound for Brunswick, Bangor and on to Bar Harbor.
Carey Kish photo

Four hours later (not a whole lot longer than if I'd driven myself) I landed in Bar Harbor. Just in time to catch the 7:15pm #3 Acadia Island Explorer bus to Blackwoods Campground.

Blackwoods andn IE 07.JPG
Hopping off the Island Explorer, backpack and all, 4 hours later in Blackwoods Campground, Acadia National Park.
Carey Kish photo

I must admit it was a bit weird checking in at the ranger kiosk on foot, but that's when it started to dawn on me: This was really cool. I'm in Acadia and I don't need no stinking car.

Next I got camp set up, cooked a pot of beans and dogs, cracked a beer(s), walked down to the coast and hung out on the rocks, and generally reveled in my car-free environment.

Car free campsite 07.JPG
My snug little campsite in Blackwoods. Notice anything missing? Yeah... my car!
Carey Kish photo

Coast below Blackwoods 07.JPG
Evening on our magnificent coast, a five-minute walk from Blackwoods.
Carey Kish photo

Island Exploere map 07.JPG
You can get just about anywhere in Acadia and Mount Desert Island using the Island Explorer.
Carey Kish photo

The following morning, bus route map in hand, I joined a crowd of other trail-bound hikers and took the #3 back into town. After breakfast at Jordan's I caught a transfer on the #7 shuttle. It was going to be a hot, hazy, humid day, so some hiking in and around Echo Lake on the west side of Acadia seemed like just the ticket.

Hopping on the IE 07.JPG
Catching the Explorer at the Town Green in Bar Harbor.
Carey Kish photo

And it was.

The scramble up the ladders on Beech Cliffs was sweet, as were the loop trails that wound for several miles on top. Beech Mountain and the firetower capped off the hike. Then it was back to Echo Lake for a late lunch and, multiple swims in the cool water and many pages of a good book in the shade.

Beech Cliff Trail 07.JPG
Climbing the iron ladders of the steep and spectacular Beech Cliff Trail.
Carey Kish photo

Echo Lake from BC 07.JPG
The reward: Echo Lake from the top of Beech Cliffs.
Carey Kish photo

Beech Mtn tower 07.JPG
The old Beech Mountain firetower.
Carey Kish photo

Echo Lake 07.JPG
Cooling off in Echo Lake on such a hazy, hot and humid day was awesome.
Carey Kish photo

IE at Echo Lake 07.JPG
Next stop after Echo Lake: Beers and lobster in Bar Harbor!
Carey Kish photo

The #6 bus whisked me back into town in late afternoon. Visits to the Thirsty Whale, Cadillac Mountain Sports and Sherman's Bookstore were mandatory before moving on to the Fish House Grill for a good ol' Maine lobstah dinnah.

Fatigue and a full belly urged me back onto the #3 and I was in camp and into my book amid the sweet smell of Blackwoods balsam by sundown.

The following day dawned cool and clear, a fine day for a ridge walk. The #3 left me off at the town green, and I dropped my loaded backpack and cooler off at the Bangor-Bar Harbor Shuttle office. Then I took the #3 again to Sieur de Monts where I picked up the #4, which deposited me at the trailhead for Champlain Mountain.

It was tremendous walking over pink granite through sparse jack pines. And with each step higher, wonderful views opened up. Bear Lake, The Jackson Laboratory, Bar Harbor, the islands, Schoodic and beyond.

Atop Mt Champlain 07.JPG
Enjoying the ocean views from the summit of Champlain.
Carey Kish photo

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Orchids high on Champlain Mountain.
Carey Kish photo

Beyond the summit it was literally all downhill and I flew across the ridge, brilliant blue ocean to my left, the bulk of Dorr and Cadillac Mountains to my right. The Bowl, a lovely high mountain pond, loomed ahead. The trail navigated along its southern edge before rising to the Beehive.

Beehive and The Bowl from Champlain 07.JPG
Looking down on the Beehive and The Bowl from Champlain Mountain.
Carey Kish photo

Beehive from Sand beach 07.JPG
The Beehive from Sand Beach.
Carey Kish photo

Lunch was had with bare feet dangling over the cliff's edge, Sand Beach many hundreds of feet below. Post-sandwich I clambered down the impossible trail, complete with iron rungs, hand rails and ladders, before making my way out to the cool winds blowing in over Sand Beach.

Beach rose Acadia.JPG
Beach rose near Sand Beach.
Carey Kish photo

Sand Beach 07.JPG
Sand Beach scene.
Carey Kish photo

Right on schedule the #3 got me back into Bah Habbah with plenty of time to spare (and time for a couple cold pints at the Whale). Because the Vermont Transit connection between Bar Harbor and Bangor for the return trip isn't so great (the bus returns south in the AM), I reserved a seat on the Bangor-Bar Harbor Shuttle, a new and well-run operation that got me connected with the Vermont Transit bus in Bangor.

Shuttle home 07.JPG
Helen Witham, owner of the Bangor-Bar Harbor Shuttle sending me on my way.
Carey Kish photo

I was back in Portland by 9:15pm. And there, looking rather lonely and forlorn, was my little car. I dumped the gear in the trunk and cranked her up, the first time in 3 days. I like that.

So there you have it. A round-trip hiking and camping trip to Acadia National Park. Entirely by bus, no less! I know it sounds like a novelty but it shouldn't be, and it isn't. It can be done. And I'll bet you too won't even miss your car.

The cost? $65 for the Vermont Transit tickets and $25 for the Bangor-Bar Harbor Shuttle, so $90 in all.

The cost to drive by car? Roughly 180 miles x 2 = 360 + 90 dubbing around miles = 450 miles total. Divided by 25 mpg = 18 gallons x $3.00 per gallon = $54. But that's only gas and doesn't anywhere near account for the true cost of operating a car on the road.

Better is to take the federal mileage reimbursement rate of 48.5 cents per mile x 450 miles = $218.50. I did this trip alone, but if two had driven: $218.50 divided by 2 = $109.50 each.

My $90 in bus fare, therefore, is cheaper by $19.50. (Beer money!) And I didn't let tons of them wicked bad auto e-missions spoil up the atmosphere neithah!!

So what do you think? You willing to give transit a try on your next Acadia visit? To have an out-of-auto-body outdoor adventure??

IE Bike Express 07.JPG
The new Bike Express connects you and your bicycle directly with the island's carriage trails. Fantastic!
Carey Kish photo


Posted by Carey Kish at 07:31 AM
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Comments

awesome!

Posted by annieo
July 13, 2007 09:06 AM

Awesome article. More people should take this route and more will with stories like this. You showed how it was easy and fun and cheaper and greener. Add all those together and people WILL leave their car behind.
Way to go!

Posted by Erik West
July 13, 2007 10:11 AM

It's one thing to talk about doing something like this, but actually doing it and sharing it with us all was fantastic! Thanks Carey!

Posted by Carl
July 13, 2007 01:10 PM

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