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Trail Head - everyday adventure in the Maine outdoors
If there's a trail — be it snow, dirt, water or concrete — outdoors nut Carey Kish will find it. Follow his Maine outdoor adventures in his blog.

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May 22, 2008
Adventure Planner: Backpack the Bold Coast

The Bold Coast Trail might be the most spectacular coastal hiking venue, outside of Acadia, in the eastern United States. Yep, it be true. Been there, done that. And I'll go back again and again.

Hike a mile in to reach the ocean, then walk southward for four stunning miles, wending your way past precipitous cliff edges, through open grasslands, across wetlands on log bridges and up craggy outlooks, the wide expanse of the Grand Manan Channel ever over your left shoulder.

Make camp at one of 3 cozy sites tucked just into the woods above the rocky shore. There's room for two small tents, logs to sit on for relaxing and cooking dinner, and a crude open-air privy that makes relieving yourself quite an experience.

Take a seat out on the rocks and enjoy a grand campsite view like no other. In clear weather you can look across the Bay of Fundy to the Canadian island of Grand Manan, and down the coast to the lighthouse at the mouth of the Little River and the entrance to Cutler Harbor.

You might eye a tanker plying the deep waters offshore or a lobster boat bobbing closer in, hauling in its catch. Shorebirds will be busy playing on the waves, as will the occasional seal and porpoise. And in late summer, at least three species of whales may be spied offshore.

At nightfall the towers of the old Cutler Naval Station to the west are unmistakable, but strangely, seem not to intrude. The rhythmic clanging of an offshore buoy and the lighthouse foghorn will likely lull you into a restful sleep.

How's it sound so far? Yeah, that's what I thought you'd say. Better get to packing up then. Head for the Sunrise County. Get in some wild and wonderful walking, Bold Coast Trail style...

Backpacking the Bold Coast.JPG
Backpacking the spectacular Bold Coast Trail.
Carey Kish photo

Bold Coast view.JPG
Typical Bold Coast view. Ho hum.
Carey Kish photo

Oceanfront real estate.JPG
Nice oceanfront real estate, eh?!
Carey Kish photo

WHAT: Backpack the magnificent trails of the Cutler Coast Unit of the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands.

WHEN: The long Memorial Day holiday weekend is a good time to go, but any weekend will do nicely. Two days and one night on the trail is great; two nights are always better!

WHERE: Travel Down East on Route 1 to Machias. East of Machias pick up Route 191 and continue to the picturesque lobstering village of Cutler. The trailhead is a couple miles out of town on your right.

WHY: Three oceanfront campsites and four miles of spectacular walking along the Grand Manan Channel! Take the Coastal Trail to and along the water. Camp nestled in the spruce and fir, with a big window view of rugged cliffs and pounding surf. Revel and enjoy! Then follow the Inland Trail back out to the car. It's 10 miles of walking total.

HOW: Get a trail map booklet from the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands, if there's time. Not time? Go anyway. It's a loop route, well marked, no problem to follow. You'll want your trusty Maine Atlas & Gazetteer, however, for road navigating.

BONUS: Stop at Helen's Restaurant in Machias on your way back for a slice of world famous blueberry pie. With a scoop of vanila ice cream, thank you very much!

Note: There's no good, reliable water sources near the campsites, so you'll need to pack it all in with you. And do bring a camera along. For natural beauty this place is out of this world. Binoculars are also worth their weight for wildlife viewing offshore, like whales, porpoises and seals.

Oceanfront trail at Bold Coast.JPG
More great oceanfront trail walking.
Carey Kish photo

Bold Coast bog walking.JPG
The trail snakes through a Bold Coast bog.
Carey Kish photo

If you make a visit to the Bold Coast, gimme a holler back here. I'd like to get a trip report, see how things went. Enjoy!


Posted by Carey Kish at 10:05 PM
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Comments

Carey, I did this a couple years back with my cousin. What a great recommendation. We did just a one night over nighter. Skeeters were terrible but how can you pass up 4 miles of coastal hiking. No water was a bit of a pain but we made do. Passed one hiker coming in on our way out. He had forgotten utensils. Mine were not washed, tuna noodle surprise still attached, but he was happy to take them. Even asked if I may have a knife too. Gave that up too, can't leave a man in the woods eating with his fingers. Not sure who he was but I'm sure he remembers the story too. Good times.

DG

Posted by DG
May 24, 2008 08:39 PM

Been their 2 times now. Lubec is awesome too. Great kayaking as well. Just got back from 2 days of camping on big birch island on lake Cumsuptic in Rangley. What a great time we had.

Love your Blog

James

Posted by James Tranchemontagne
June 6, 2008 10:05 AM

Well, don't let the pretty views fool you - it's a long drive there from anywhere -with no conveniences and the gas costs a fortune. Did I mention that the people are very unfriendly and the bugs - mosquitoes and black flies at the same time - are so thick most of the time you can't even see the ocean through them - oh, and then there are the notorious no-see-ums that have been known to drive people to sling themselves off of those rocky cliffs. Take my advice and never, ever venture past Acadia...really, you get the same or better view, more hiking and you can even find a bathroom when you need one that flushes.

Posted by Linnie
June 10, 2008 08:43 PM

I backpacked this loop last Memorial Weekend and had the most wonderful time. The views were spectacular and the remote expanse of coastline made the experience completely worthwhile. We did not have enough water, but the locals we asked were more than happy to help us out and let us fill up at their house (and invited us to a bar-b-que!) Compared to Acadia, this is a hiker / campers paradise, sans long lines, traffic jams and annoying people. One word of advice, once the parking area fills thats it, so plan carefully - its first come first serve.

Posted by abna
June 12, 2008 02:33 PM

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