Excuse me for being the bearer of bad news folks, but Maine's North Woods is not wilderness.

Wild? Yes.

Woods? Yes.

But it is not, as Brownie Carson of the Natural Resource Council of Maine described it, a "vast forested wilderness."

It just isn't. The vast majority of it is working forest.

But the anti-development advocates continue to perpetuate the myth.

All development bad. Wilderness good.

No in-between. No balance.

It doesn't have to be this way.

Development is coming. To Maine and elsewhere.

Millions of baby boomers are on the verge of retirement. And having worked all their lives they have money. And they are searching for places to retire and invest.

Maine is one of those places.

So, would you rather have unplanned, willy-nilly development up north? Or would you prefer that development be planned to some degree, orderly like? Like the Plum Creek plan.

Is it a big project? Sure.

Will it destroy forever the wilderness character of the north woods? I don't think so.

Geography alone will naturally limit development in and around Moosehead. This isn't the coast. This isn't a few hours from Boston. Or even anywhere near a major airport. Access to the area takes time and effort. It always will.

I wish the Brownie Carsons and Jonathan Carters of the state would fess up and come clean about what they really want: No development at all. To hell with what the local people want. To hell with giving a boost to the local economy.

Carson wants Plum Creek to go back and re-tool their plan.

Why bother?

What could Plum Creek possibly do to change your mind? Little I believe.

Maine's north woods is a big place. A special place. A beautiful place.

Nobody wants to see it paved over.

We all want to be able to camp and hike and fish and snowmobile there. We want the local folks to thrive and enjoy a quality of life that is better than what they have now. We want the timber industry and our vast forestlands--a huge wealth of renewable resources--to survive and prosper.

It can't be one way OR the other. A plan for conservation. A plan for development. A balanced approach that benefits many. That's what's needed.

After ten years in business, our good friends at Maine Mountain Works are closing their Marginal Way store.

Todd and Kelly and their crew have run a good shop and have been a real fixture in the local outdoor community.

Many thanks to all of you.

I know you'll still be around at your Commercial Street location, but it won't be quite the same.

I'm going to miss you. We're all going to miss you.

We wish you the best of luck with your remaining store. And with whatever it is that you do next with your life. Go for it. Have fun!

Thank you friends.

As you might expect, Maine Mountain Works is having a big sale to empty the place out, so come and get it!

Per Todd and Kelly:

Maine MountainWorks
Marginal Way Store Liquidation

Everything Must Go!

Hiking, Camping, Paddling, Climbing Equipment, Clothing, Footwear!

Monday, 8/22 thru Sunday, 9/4 Everything in the store at least 20% OFF.

Monday, 9/5 thru Sunday, 9/11 Everything remaining will be at least 30% OFF

Monday, 9/12 thru Sunday, 9/18 Everything remaining will be at least 40% OFF

Monday, 9/19 thru Friday, 9/30 Anything remaining will be 40% to 50% OFF

Kayaks will be priced separately.

Well, I'm headed overseas again for another walking vacation, or "holiday" as the Europeans like to call it.

Finally. At the end of next week.

Unguided. And solo.

It's been three long years since I've been walking over on the continent and I'm just beside myself with anticipation.

I've been lucky enough to hike the Coast-to-Coast Path across England from the Irish Sea to the North Sea, the Haute Route from Mount Blanc in France to the Matterhorn in Switzerland, and the West Highland Way from outside Glascow to Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK, in Scotland.

This time it's Wales.

More specifically, the Offa's Dyke Path from the River Severn 180 miles northward to Prestatyn on the Irish Sea.

I'm figuring on about 15 days to make the journey through the hills and mountains and villages along the wild Welsh-English border. And if I have any time left, which I may if I don't linger in too many pubs, I hope to climb Snowdon, the highest peak in Wales, and explore Snowdonia National Park.

In order to carry the lightest possible packload, I've been on the phone and writing emails to inns and B&B's and hostels in the hopes of not having to carry any camping gear at all. It's been a hoot talking with the innkeepers the last few days shoring up the plans. I just love their accent!

Sans camping gear is how I've made my European walks in the past and I loved it. There's nothing like it: A sweet day of hill walking, a cozy pub in the afternoon and a comfortable inn for the evening, complete with cooked meals and a warm bed.

And speaking of, I'm so looking forward to the "full English breakfast" each day, that lard-laden, artery-clogging morning treat of fried eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes, bread, sausage, and bacon.

Oh yeah!

And the beer, of course.

And I might even enjoy the walk a bit too.

Trail Head is officially one year old!

Woo-hoo!

Many thanks to everyone who has followed along and added their two cents.

And special thanks to my friends at MaineToday.com for all your support.

On to another year of adventures big and small...

I didn't, to use a fine Maine expression, do Jack Squat this weekend.

Nothing approaching anything useful that is.

Unless you consider occasionally trundling back and forth from my brother's pool to the fridge in the garage for a cold one and a slice of lime.

Yep, that's about it. I admit it.

A slug.

But that's okay.

Say what you will, the occasional weekend off from strenuous physical activity is a good thing.

I did, however, manage to knock off two good books.

So my body may have soaked in the 90F water to a prune-like character, but at least my brain didn't atrophy. Or at least I balanced out what brain cells the beer killed off...

What did you do over the weekend?

You remember the canoe and kayak tax that some members of our esteemed state legislature proposed awhile back?

Yeah, we just loved that idea.

Well, hold on. To your pint glass, that is.

Yep, the legislature is at it again.

Sneaky, very sneaky.

According to Yankee Brew News (Aug/Sept 2005 edition), the Taxation Committee of the Maine Legislature is pushing for passage of a bill (LD 1595) that would increase the tax on...

Beer!

Yes, it's true.

YBN says that the tax could increase the cost of a pint by as much as a dollar.

Whoa!

First canoes and kayaks. Now our beloved post-outdoor activity refreshment.

It's time to stand together and oppose this affront to decent hard-hiking and paddling and climbing and whatever outdoor enthusiasts!

Outdoors-people unite! Couch potatoes unite! We all love our beer and we don't want to pay any more taxes to get it!

Contact your legislator today and tell them NO to increasing the tax on beer!

A photo tour of Big Bob's River-Food-Camp Fest, of which I was a willing participant, last weekend at Mollidgewock State Park in Errol, N.H.

I'm telling you, there's nothing quite like camping and paddling with 30 other fun loving people...

The ubiquitous moose sign on Route 26 near Umbagog Lake.

Mollidgewock State Park has several dozen sweet campsites right on the Androscoggin River.

The gang relaxing by the campfire. I believe they call this "happy hour."

Early morning mist on the river.

Exploring a side stream across from the campsite.

Getting 30 people onto the river is truly like herding cats.

Paddling the Class I waters of the Androscoggin right from the campsite.

Bob takes the plunge from the rope swing.

Enjoying the river.

Water lilies in bloom.

The rips at the bridge on Route 26 in Errol.

Cathy spinning through the rips in her tube.

A "group tube" having a blast in the rapids.

Mist on the river, second morning.

Bob's dog waking up.

Pontook Dam on the Androscoggin River in Milan NH.

The put in below the dam.

Paddling down river bound for the Class II rapids.

The view downstream from the bow of my much maligned "ducky" or inflatable kayak.

LL Cote's in downtown Errol, where you can buy anything you'd ever need, as long as it's blaze orange or camo.

Where else on a tremendous summer weekend but "on the river"? Thanks Bob!

I drove down to New Hampshire last night to visit with family near Manchester.

It was rush hour, traffic was thick, and it was hot out. Perfect conditions for road rage.

Exiting I-95, the toll booth leading onto Route 101 was backed up solid.

That's okay. Stay cool. Relax.

After passing through the toll, the mass of cars were forced to queue into a single lane because of construction.

I noticed a car coming up on my left. Massachusetts plates. So I slowed and waved the car on.

But he didn't move.

Instead the driver waved me on.

No, no, I thought. Please you go.

He wouldn't budge. And waved me on again. With a smile.

Hmmm.

So I pulled out and onto the ramp and drove off.

And gestured thanks with a wave and a nod in my rearview.

What just happened?

A car with Massachusetts plates. A courteous driver. With a friendly wave. And a smile.

What the hell is happening to the world?

Not to worry.

Returning home this morning on the Maine Turnpike I looked in my mirror to see a car barreling down on me at high speed, seemingly intent on driving straight up my tailpipe.

But at the last possible second he changed lanes, nearly clipping my bumper, and passed me just inches from my driver's door.

The plates on the car: Massachusetts, of course.

Now that's more like it.

Ahh, all is well with the world again...

Noted University of Southern Maine economist Charles Colgan has just completed an analysis of the proposed Plum Creek development project in the Moosehead Lake region.

You know the details pretty well by now: 1,500 housing lots, several resorts, campgrounds, yada yada... on 2% of Plum Creek's land holdings of some 450,000 acres. 98% of their lands will remain undeveloped and in timber production for at least 30 years. Hiking trails and snowmobile trails will be constructed and the land will remain available for recreational use by the public.

Colgan's conclusion: A positive economic impact on the region.

The be all and end all word on the deal?

No.

A fair assessment by Colgan, a well-respected and highly experienced Maine economist?

I think so.

As expected, the RESTORE folks say that the economic benefits of the project as outlined in the analysis are "purely speculative" because they are merely paper descriptions of what might be.

Uh, hello.

Aren't the economic benefits of your proposed national park up there that you've been touting rather speculative also? Isn't that just a paper plan too?

You guys crack me up.

Give me a break.

By the way, the public (that's us) has four opportunities coming up to give input into the project to the LURC folks, the people that will ultimately give the thumbs up or down on the Plum Creek proposal:

8/16/05 Greenville
8/18/05 Rockwood
8/22/05 Jackman area
8/24/05 Augusta area

Get all the details from LURC.

And don't pass up your chance to put your two cents in.

A teenager used a floatation noodle--like one you'd use in your backyard swimming pool--to rescue a man who'd swamped his canoe on the St. Croix River.

Pretty quick thinking.

And a good thing for the drunk guy in (or out of, as the case may be) the canoe.

Yes, drunk apparently.

Very nearly another Darwin Award winner.

There really is no limit on stupidity, is there?

The eastern half of the Grafton Loop Trail has been open to hikers for three seasons now, but I couldn't seem to get my backpacking butt up there to do it.

Until a week ago.

The wait was worth it. It's beautiful. And rugged.

We opted to travel from the south end, making the long climb up to the spectacular alpine summit of Puzzle Mountain. There the trail strikes north and generally follows the Newry-Andover town line over Long Mountain under a thick canopy of hardwoods, with occasional outlooks.

After 12 miles on the go, we skipped across Wight Brook and pitched camp at Knoll Campsite, one of five primitive campsites along the way.

The following day we hiked over Lightning Ledge with nice views of the Bear River Valley, Sunday River Whitecap and East and West Baldpate just ahead. That afternoon we topped out on East Baldpate and joined up with the Appalachian Trail.

After lunch and a nap on the open summit, we pushed on, completing the hike with a tough, knee-pounding descent of the ledges on East Baldpate and the heavily eroded trail on West Baldpate.

An easy hitchhike from the parking lot at Grafton Notch got us back to the car. And the Sunday River Brew Pub wasn't long after...

If you go, be prepared. This is a tough weekend hike through desolate country. Campsites are rough with only one privy (at Lane Campsite). Practice Leave No Trace! Carry plenty of water, especially between Puzzle Mountain and Knoll Campsite, as water sources are iffy.

The GLT provides 21 miles of great hiking and backcountry solitude where you're unlikely to see many other people. So go and enjoy! And I may see you out there again this fall when the leaves start to change.

I haven't heard when the western loop will open, supposedly later this summer. I'll update you when I hear something (or vice versa).

The completed portion of the Grafton Loop Trail extends 21 miles along the east side of Grafton Notch.

Sunday River Ski Resort from the summit of Puzzle Mountain.

Along the GLT.

Score!

Puzzle Mtn. from Long Mtn.

Bunchberries and Reindeer Moss.

Sunday River Whitecap, over which the western loop of the GLT will go.

Facilities along the GLT are primitive at best. Practice Leave No Trace and keep it pristine!

Color on the forest floor.

Climbing steeply on the way to Baldpate Mountain.

Wood sorrel.

The GLT meets the AT atop the alpine summit of Baldpate, with Old Speck in the distance.

On my way home from a great weekend of kayaking on the Androscoggin River in N.H. yesterday afternoon, I stopped in at Pat's Pizza in Bethel for some sustenance.

While enjoying a cold one and waiting for my pizza I thumbed through a copy of The Bear Facts of Maine, a weekly paper of news, events and tidbits of a local flavor concerning Western Maine.

With nothing else pressing at the moment, I was riveted by accounts of the winners of the Duck Race at the Moxie Festival and the West Paris Soap Box Derby, a brief history of hot dogs and new ice cream serving suggestions, the upcoming Andover Old Home Days and Wilton Blueberry festivals, and a long list of other current area events.

But what really caught my eye was an advertisement for the M-275 MULE 1/2 Ton Weapons Carrier.

Hmmm.

Now there's something you don't see around every day.

Says here "used extensively in Vietnam, though seldom seen (I wonder why?), the Mule was designed for Army and Marine use in forward areas... At $6,000 for the refurbished M-275, the huge cargo platform and weight carrying capacities make this a great vehicle for any kind of outdoor activity."

My chow arrived and as I ate, I stared at the picture of the M-275.

Yessah, I need me one of them things for sure.

I drove away in my Honda Civic feeling a bit inadequate, but with dreamy thoughts of a burly M-275...

Oh yeah.

Seems every day in this good life you can find something to laugh about.

I just love that!

Leave all the the serious stuff for somebody else. I just want to laugh and have fun. You too I'll bet.

Anyway, reader Wilbo suggested that I submit my blog entry on caterpillar crap from the other day to the Poop Report.

Poop Report?

Now there's something I hadn't heard of before.

So I went there and split a gut. Likely you will too. It's good for a few Friday yucks.

Stories about poop. Intellectual crap. Fun with feces.

It's all there.

Enjoy!

The kayaks are loaded up. Camping duffles packed. Food and cooler are ready. Gas tank full. Jimmy Buffett in the CD player.

Must be the weekend!

Guess it's time to go somewhere and have some outdoor fun.

You'd think this routine would get old and boring but...

NOT A CHANCE!

I'm bound for Errol, N.H. and the beautiful Umbagog Lake region this afternoon for Big Bob's annual paddling and food extravaganza with 30 other MOACers.

It's two full days of camping at pretty Mollidgewock State Park on the banks of the Androscoggin River, with a considerable amount of whitewater and flatwater fun on the river thrown in just for yucks.

I can deal with that. Oh, can I ever deal with that.

Can I just leave now? Please?

What are you up to on this fine looking weekend ahead?

This can't be happening.

First the Plum Creek thing near Greenville.

And now some other out-of-state yucksters want to d... de... dev... d-e-v-e-l-o-p a resort on the other side of the mountains on a 3,500-acre parcel of land fronting on Norton Pond in Brownville.

Jon, you gotta do something!

The news has been out for a couple of hours now and I haven't heard boo from you.

What gives?

This is more big stuff. It's development. In the wilderness of Brownville no less. It must be stopped! By every "political, legal and legislative" means, right Jon?

Get on it Jon. We're counting on you.

Andrew Thompson, aka Trail Dog, of Derry N.H., just set a new record for speed hiking the Appalachian Trail from Maine to Georgia: 47 days, 13 hours and 31 minutes!

That figures to be an average of 45.7 miles per day to cover the entire 2,175 mile length of the AT.

Wow! That's moving!

It's quite a feat just to hike the whole trail in the normal amount of time--about five months--never mind a little over a month and a half.

Of course, you don't get to see much at that pace. And in the end, that's why most people are out there.

But a challenge is a challenge. And Trail Dog certainly mastered this one.

What did he take away from his accomplishment?

...his AT epiphany “made itself absolutely clear,” he said. “Everything in life boils down to motivation.”

No question.

One foot in front of the other. Day after day. It won't happen any other way. You gotta want it, go for it, and do it.

I met the original AT speed hiker, Warren Doyle, back in (gulp!) 1973 at the bridge over Bald Mountain Stream south of Monson.

He only had a minute to talk, but this 13-year old greenhorn hiker peppered him with questions in that short time. Needless to say, I was pretty awed. Then he looked at his watch, announced that my minute was up, and sped off.

He finished the trail in 66 1/2 days.

And now, 33 years later, the record has been shaved by almost 20 days.

Interestingly, I met Warren Doyle again in 1977 on Loft Mountain in the Shenandoahs on my very own thru-hike, which took me 162 days! Nobody ever accused me of being fast, that's for certain.

You gotta love the criminal mind. Or lack thereof.

A Pittston man made his getaway from the scene of a crime in a...

... canoe!

[Excuse me while I pee my pants laughing]

Wow. That must have been some chase. Paddling down the Kennebec at a couple of miles an hour.

Can you just picture it?

Oh no, they're catching up. Wish I had a better J-stroke. Damn these Old Towns are slow. Shoulda got a Lincoln!

And you thought a white Bronco going 20 miles an hour on an L.A. freeway was boring!

Anyway, the guy finally smartened up a little, ditched the canoe, and tried to steal a motor boat.

Nice try Einstein.

But the boat wouldn't start, and with the cops in hot pursuit, he did the next best thing.

He dove in the water and swam away!

[I'm just dying here]

But the police had a boat with a motor that actually worked, caught up to him, and made the arrest in mid-stream.

It could only happen here...

It was literally raining insect poop along much of the Grafton Loop Trail this weekend.

Honest!

Hiking up Puzzle Mountain on Saturday I stopped to rest. And that's when I first heard it.

The sound of rain.

But it couldn't be because the sun was out and the sky was bright blue.

I waited, listened some more, looked up, and realized that what I was hearing were insects eating away the leaves of the hardwood trees and dropping poop all over the place, and occasionally dropping themselves onto the forest floor.

I couldn't identify the beasty little critters who were making all the racket, but I finally did get a photo of one.

The Saddled Prominent caterpillar caught on a blue blaze along the Grafton Loop Trail.

Charlene Donahue, an entomologist with the Maine Forest Service, knew what it was right away when I called her yesterday: The Saddled Prominent.

According to Donahue, the Saddled Prominent is native to Maine and feeds on hardwood leaves, primarily beech, maple and oak. There's a surge in population every 8 years or so affecting mostly western Maine.

She couldn't say exactly what caused the periodic uptick in numbers, but figured weather might be a factor. The current outbreak is considered mild and should last another season or so before dying out again.

So the next time you hear rain in the woods and the sun is out, it might just be the Saddled Prominent. Who knew?

Now I'm gonna go clean the caterpillar crap off my backpack, thank you very much.

OK, so maybe the lightweight gear kick has finally gotten to me.

A couple of weeks ago I picked up a pair of lightweight hikers. Low cut, Gore-Tex, sticky soles. Nice. I like 'em.

Then last week while I was in Maine Mountain Works I couldn't resist a new mini Trangia alcohol stove and cookset.

My cool new mini Trangia alcohol stove set.

Despite my outward skepticism of any stove that doesn't require priming and pumping, doesn't roar loudly, doesn't emit smelly gas fumes and doesn't burn my food to the bottom of the pan (must be a Tim Allen thing, I guess), I'd always wanted to try one, so what the heck.

Turns out the damn thing works pretty good. It's simple to use, lightweight and cooks a weekend of meals on just a few ounces of denatured alcohol (available at any hardware store).

It does take a little longer than my trusty Whisperlite, so I do need a larger measure of patience, something that can be in short supply in my neck of the woods, especially at the end of the hiking day when I really want my soup.

Om Mani Padme Hum. I shall have patience and all shall be good. And I shall like my new alcohol stove...

Waiting patiently for my soup!

LURC, Maine's Land Use Regulation Commission, will be holding a series of four "scoping sessions" in the next few weeks on the proposed Plum Creek land development project.

These are public input sessions and might just be a fine opportunity for those folks who have demonstrated their opposition to the project in some rather unsavory ways recently, i.e. trashing the offices of Plum Creek in Greenville and Fairfield.

Tisk, tisk.

How about if you all put away your ski masks and crowbars and spray paint, get cleaned up, and participate in the public process, nice like?

It would add so much credence to your cause.

Plenty of Maine people oppose the Plum Creek plan for some very good reasons. Those in favor have some good things to say too. I've got quite a list of questions myself.

But breaking windows and stealing stuff isn't the way to win anybody's favor.

The public process works. In the end nobody gets everything they wanted. But at least all sides have had their say. That's just the way it works in a free society.

Hope you'll chime in.

I arrived home from a weekend backpack trip to find my new Platypus hydration system had arrived in the mail.

Woo-hoo! (Mail order gear makes me wicked happy!)

Searching about locally last week for a replacement bladder for my tired and leaky Platypus wasn't easy.

But finally I came across a great deal online at Campmor: A Platypus 2.0 liter bladder, cordura nylon protective cover, lapel clip, drinking tube and bite valve... all for an astounding $4.97!

My new Platypus hydration system fresh out of the box.

Campmor, you rock!

I've been feeling twinges in my right knee for several months now. But I've chosen to ignore the problem and keep on hiking.

I could take it easy and rest the knee, but I honestly don't think the result would be any different. Besides, it's summer and I want to hike dammit.

Well, descending the steep ledges of East Baldpate on Sunday, near the tail end of a 21-mile backpack along the Grafton Loop Trail, the knee went from bad to worse. The pain became intense and I figured it would give out at any moment.

The steep ledges on East Baldpate can be tough on the knees.

Looking back on East Baldpate along the AT/GLT.

Great! A matching set now. My left knee collapsed while descending the Firewarden's Trail on Bigelow five summers ago. That made for quite an ordeal, dragging myself six miles out to the highway on one leg. I was alone at the time, of course.

This time the knee, although painful, held out. Even as I twisted my right ankle nicely three times in the course of a mile coming down the brutal trail of West Baldpate.

But I made it out to Route 26 okay. And a couple of pints of Knuckleball Bock at the Sunday River Brew Pub afterward seemed to take the edge off the pain. Funny how that works.

So, just for yucks, I'll go see my doctor again. And he'll likely tell me the same thing as with my left knee, which, after a variety of tests, including an MRI (all negative), came up with no reasonable explanation other than, hey, you're over 40 and your parts are wearing out.

Just what you want to hear, but after 30 years of heavy trail use, what can you expect?

So I'll just keep plugging along. And popping the ibuprofen. And putting back the occasional medicinal pint of beer too.