Cross-country skiing paradise awaits you

Sunday, January 22, 2006

By MICHAEL PERRY

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ROLLER SKIS AT A GLANCE

BEFORE YOU GO

IF YOU are skiing on equipment over 10 years old, visit your local ski shop and talk with their reps about what's new and the advantages of upgrading. Boot and binding systems are much more performance oriented than years ago. That translates into increased warmth, greater efficiency and energy savings, and greatly increased control on downhill turns.
SKIS LIKEWISE have improved: They are lighter, sturdier and come with increased grip and glide capabilities. You are doing yourself a disservice by continuing to get by on outdated equipment. With your new gear you will be skiing more often, and having more fun.
TAKE A LESSON: Whether you're just starting out or are a seasoned skier, a two-hour lesson at a qualified cross-country ski center is a great investment. With proper technique and more on-snow time, you will become a better skier using less energy and feeling more secure on hilly terrain.
GROOMED VS. UNGROOMED
THERE ARE two types of cross-country skiing, each almost unrelated to the other: backcountry and prepared ski tracks. Out the back door into unpacked, powder snow is akin to snowshoeing except that you happen to be on skis. The feeling of effortlessly gliding along like a bird in flight is not the sensation here. It is replaced by the wonder of just being out in the fresh air and observing the beauty of the winter world. Prepared ski tracks are set by ski-grooming machines most often at cross-country ski centers and by some towns in municipal park settings. Set tracks are narrow machine-made grooves that your skis easily glide along in. No energy is wasted trying to control the skis from sliding sideways. All energy is focused forward. This is where the feeling of gliding like a bird is experienced, the Zen state of mind for many cross-country ski enthusiasts. Contact the Maine Nordic Ski Council for a listing of Maine ski centers: www.mnsc.com.

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Cobalt blue sky, the cracking of trees in the early dawn air, a partridge exploding out of a snowbank, the muffled gurgle of water flowing under a frozen waterfall, the exhilaration of effortlessly gliding along. Cross-country skiing in Maine offers a wealth of possibilities.

The following is a sampler of five of the hundreds of cross-country ski locales in Maine. We have selected a wide cross section of types of skiing, terrain and vistas; from urban to wilderness, from sea to mountains, from families looking for a special shared experience to hotshots looking to hone their racing form.

RIVERSIDE GOLF COURSE

Stressed out by work and need a quick post-work escape? If you work in the Portland area, keep your skis in your vehicle and give yourself a great end-of-the-day gift: fresh air, exercise and stress reduction.

Located 10 minutes from downtown Portland on outer Riverside Street, this 27-hole public golf course grooms nearly seven miles of trails over flat to rolling terrain. The trail is groomed 20 feet wide to accommodate both skate and classic skiers. A $2 donation is appreciated in support of the Portland Ski Club. Park at either the North or South Course parking lots and ski from there.

A half-mile of trail follows along the scenic Presumpscot River, where it is common to see bald eagles searching for food along the river. Red-tailed hawks and deer are often seen as well, and the occasional coyote.

The North Course Clubhouse is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and is a good place to warm up. No food is served. Riverside is a popular spot on a full moon night and with the after work ski-by-headlamp crowd. Located 2.5 miles from Exit 48 of the Maine Turnpike.

SUNDAY RIVER INN AND CROSS COUNTRY SKI CENTER, NEWRY

Nestled amid the mountain kingdom southeast of Grafton Notch, the Sunday River Cross Country Ski Center has been focused on family fun and great skiing for decades. Their 24 miles of groomed trails accommodate beginners in and around the river valley, then branch out to swoops, loops and drops for more advanced skiers on the mountainsides to the west.

One of our favorite trails is the 1.5-mile ski-down to a beautiful covered bridge spanning Sunday River. This 1872 bridge, known as "Artist's Bridge," is one of the most photographed in Maine.

There are many special events throughout the winter. For food lovers, drop by for the 19th Annual Joy of Skiing on Saturday, Feb. 25 and ski and eat to your heart's content. Five food stations are set up on the way to and from the covered bridge.

Start out with homemade doughnuts at 10 a.m. and end up back at the inn for chips and salsa in the afternoon. Proceeds will benefit the American Lung Association of Maine.

The Farm Loop across the road from the inn provides a scenic area for skiers who like to ski with their dogs. Trail passes for adults are $16 per person.

Check out their Web site at www.sundayriverinn.com for information on ski rentals, lessons, and directions. (Delorme map No. 10)

TITCOMB MOUNTAIN NORDIC CENTER, FARMINGTON

When you ski the cross-country trails on the low ridgeline of Titcomb Mountain, you are skiing one of Maine's most historic ski areas. Skiers have been skiing Titcomb since 1938, and the first rope tow was installed in 1942. Nordic trails were cut in 1952 and total 10 miles in length. Terrain is gentle to rolling, with something for every level of skier.

You'll see skiers from area colleges training for a race, and then come upon a family by the side of the trail passing around cups of steaming hot cocoa from their thermos.

Many skiers refer to Titcomb Nordic as one of Maine skiing's "hidden gems." The trails are rarely crowded, the views of the surrounding mountains create a Currier and Ives winter backdrop, and the trail grooming is consistently outstanding.

Trail fees are $10 per adult. Check out their Web site at www.titcombmountain.com for information on ski rentals, lessons and directions. Located on Morrison Hill Road via Route 43. Plans include the development of cross-country skiing under the lights. (Delorme map No. 19)

AROUND MOUNTAIN LOOP ON MOUNT DESERT ISLAND

With nearly 57 miles (45 within the boundaries of Acadia National Park) of gently graded carriage roads, Mount Desert Island is a skier's delight.

The Around Mountain loop is a stunning, all-day 11-mile adventure on groomed ski trails. Start and end at the Parkman Mountain parking lot on Route 198. Along the way you are treated to open vistas of craggy mountains, artistic mosaics of ice and snow on windswept Jordan Pond, slopes of white birch and fragrant spruce and hemlock, and the long reach of Somes Sound, which is the only natural fjord in New England.

Be sure to stop and admire the craftsmanship of the historic granite bridges spanning a number of mountain brooks. In 1917, John D. Rockefeller hired landscape architect, Frederick Law Olmstead, to begin designing the roads and bridges.

You have to hit the snow conditions just right. Yesterday's powder can be today's ice because of the maritime influence. Call National Park headquarters at 207-288-3338 for up-to-date snow conditions. Many of the carriage roads are groomed for skiing by volunteers of the Acadia Winter Trail Association. All skiing in the park is free. (Delorme map No. 16)

SUGARLOAF OUTDOOR CENTER IN CARRABASSETT VALLEY

First off, you have the gift of one of the great scenic winter drives in Maine, following along the ice-swollen Carrabassett River on twisting Route 27. There, at a turn in the road, the snow-clad ramparts of the Bigelow Range suddenly fill your windshield. Jaws drop.

The cross-country ski experience is just as spectacular. Whether nursing a steaming cup of soup by the crackling fireplace in the outdoor center, looking for signs of moose around Moose Bog or twisting down through the woods on the way back from remote "Trail 51," there is plenty of ambience for both experienced and beginner skier on 60 miles of terrain. There is also an outdoor ice skating rink to enjoy.

Our favorite venue is skiing the groomed open glades of the Sugarloaf Golf Course under the shadows of the Sugarloaf alpine area. The views out over the powdery fairways are spectacular, with Little Bigelow and the high peaks of the Bigelow massif providing a Colorado-like backdrop.

The views are especially stunning late in the afternoon when an alpine pink glow settles over the high country. It will have you coming back for more each weekend.

Check out their Web site at www.sugarloaf.com/nordic for information on ski rentals, lessons, and directions. (Delorme map No. 29)

We'll present another five great cross-country skiing spots within the next few weeks.

Michael Perry is the former director of the L.L. Bean Outdoor Discovery Schools and founder of Dreams Unlimited, specializing in multimedia programs about the outdoors. He has been cross-country skiing for more than 30 years and skis on average 100 days a winter. E-mail Perry with questions or comments at dreams@ime.net.

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